Cru Bourgeois is back, but not as we know it…

Since the Grands Crus Classés classification of 1855, attempts to identify the best Bordeaux wines have run foul of the demands of tradition. The original Cru Bourgeois came into being in 1932 because the Grand Crus had changed only once in the previous 76 years, and was widely regarded as having some overlaps in quality with the more traditional classification. The lessons of history are seldom learned easily, however, and the Cru Bourgeois, like its older sister, was left untampered with for 61 years. In 2003 though, changes were made, which almost halved the size of the list, and promoted a few wines to “Superieurs” and others to the still higher ranking of “Exceptionelle” igniting fierce protests from those excluded from the list. So fierce, in fact, were these protests that they went all the way to court, and the revision was nullified in 2007 on the basis of a conflict of interest as some of the owners of selected vineyards were themselves involved in the selection.

Since then, all the original vineyards have been re-designated ‘Cru Bourgeois’ whilst behind the scenes further wrangling produced the current listing. Lessons have been learned from the bloody past of these listings, however, and the Cru Bourgeois will now be a more democratic listing. It will now be decided by paid wine professionals with none of the château owners involved, and without the divisive multi level system of the 2003 revision. The aim is to set a bar or minimum standard for wine to reach in order to be included in the Cru Bourgeois, which will mean that the number of châteaux featured will vary depending on the quality of the vintage.

How long this new approach will last, however, is already in doubt, as many of the estates who produce more expensive wines feel that a hierarchy should once again be instated. Indeed, a group of the former “Exceptionelles” has already withdrawn from the listing to start their own group, prompting talk of a vote for all member châteaux on producing a new hierarchical ranking. It can only be hoped that this will not be just another chapter in a history of own goals in the wine industry. Many believe that the hierarchical ranking has always been confusing for the consumer but the demands of the vineyards have always played a key role in such decisions.

For the time being, however, the Bordeaux region can celebrate the return to prominence of a valued institution.

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